I've spent numerous hours at my workbench, and there's just something special about using 18k gold wire for jewelry making that you can't get with other alloys. When you're first starting out, you might lean toward real estate agent or silver mainly because they're cheaper, and that makes total feeling while you're training your loops. But once you lastly make the jump in order to 18k gold, it's hard to go back again. It has this particular rich, buttery warmness that feels substantial in your fingers and looks incredibly high-end on the finished piece.
Working with gold isn't just about the prestige of the material, although that certainly helps when you're trying to sell your own work. It's also about how the metal behaves below your pliers. If you've been struggling along with wire that seems too springy or metal that tarnishes before you've even finished the necklace around your neck, making the switch to a higher karat gold might be the solution you didn't know you required.
The special appeal of the 18k alloy
Within the jewelry entire world, we communicate a lot regarding karats, but it's worth reminding ourselves what 18k really means for the particular maker. It's 75% pure gold mixed with other alloys like copper and silver to provide it strength. This specific ratio is the "sweet spot" for many designers. It's much more yellow and radiant than 14k, which usually can sometimes look a bit pale or washed away in contrast.
By using 18k gold wire for jewelry making, you're providing something which feels such as a true antique. It's heavy—heavier than silver—and that pounds gives a pair associated with earrings or even a sensitive bracelet a feeling of quality that people can feel the time they pick this up. Plus, it's much more proof to tarnishing compared to lower-karat alloys. You won't need to worry since much about your own stock looking dull after sitting within a display situation for a couple weeks.
Choosing the correct temper for your own project
1 of the nearly all important things to determine when buying 18k gold wire for jewelry making will be the temper, or the particular hardness of the particular wire. If you obtain this wrong, you're going to possess a frustrating period at the bench. Usually, you'll find wire categorized since dead soft, half-hard, or full-hard.
Dead soft wire
This will be exactly what it sounds like. It's incredibly pliable. I enjoy using dead smooth 18k wire for intricate wire wrap or when I'm creating organic forms that need a lot of manipulation. It's very forgiving, yet keep in mind that it doesn't hold its shape well on the own. If you're making a structural element, you'll need to work-harden it with a hammer or by rotating it.
Half-hard wire
This is my first choice for the majority of things. It has enough "snap" to hold the shape, which can make it perfect for jump rings, ear canal wires, and basic loops. When you're using 18k gold wire for jewelry making, half-hard is often the most versatile choice because it strikes a balance between being easy to flex and being durable enough to withstand day-to-day wear.
Knowing gauges and the reason why they matter
Gauge describes the thickness of the wire, and in the united states, we usually use the Brown & Sharpe (AWG) scale. The higher the number, the thinner the wire. It sounds backward at first, however you obtain used to this quickly.
In the event that you're making hearing wires, 20-gauge or even 22-gauge is standard. Anything thicker won't fit through most piercings, and something thinner might feel too flimsy. For delicate wire wrap around small gems, I usually reach for 24-gauge or 26-gauge 18k gold wire. It's thin enough to pass through the drill holes of beads but sufficiently strong to stay secure.
If you're planning on making heavy-duty bangles or even structural frames, you might drop fourteen or 12 measure. Just be prepared—working with thick 18k gold wire is really a workout for both hands!
Tips for working with 18k gold wire
Since 18k gold much more expensive than silver, you really don't wish to waste it. I've discovered a few methods over the years to make certain every millimeter of that wire matters.
First, spend in a great set of nylon-jaw pliers. Regular steel pliers can leave awful nicks and scratches around the soft gold surface. Because 18k is softer compared to 14k or steel, those marks show up easily plus can be a pain to fan out later. In case you don't have nylon-jaw pliers, you can wrap the particular tips of your regular pliers with a bit of masking tape or Dip-it tool coating.
An additional thing to keep in mind is that will gold work-hardens because you manipulate this. Every time you bend, twist, or even hammer the wire, the molecules shrink as well as the metal gets stiffer. If you overwork 18k gold wire for jewelry making, it can truly be frail and eventually breeze. If you feel the wire obtaining too "angry" or even stiff, you might need to anneal it with a torch to soften it back up.
Coping with scrap plus "mistakes"
The particular best thing about dealing with solid 18k gold is that will there is zero waste. I keep a small, devoted jar on my desk just for gold scraps. Every single tiny snippet associated with wire, every failed jump ring, plus every bit of dust from filing will go into that jar.
Once you have enough, you may melt it down to make a little gold ball for a decorative emphasis, or you can send it in order to a refiner plus get credit towards your next purchase of wire. This is a large advantage over gold-filled or plated wire, where the scrap value is basically zero. Much more the initial high price of 18k gold wire for jewelry making a lot easier to stomach whenever you know you can recoup some associated with that investment.
Pricing your 18k gold jewelry
Let's be true: 18k gold is a luxury material. When you start utilizing it, your costs are going to jump. I've found that it's vital that you be clear with customers regarding why a piece costs more. Describe the difference in gold content and the longevity of the metal.
A lot of people who are looking for 18k gold jewelry are looking for "forever" pieces. They need something they can wear within the bath, at the gym, and eventually pass down to someone else. When you use 18k gold wire for jewelry making, a person aren't just marketing a design; you're selling a material that holds its value over time.
Last thoughts on the process
In the event that you've been upon the fence regarding trying out 18k gold wire for jewelry making, I'd say start little. Maybe buy just a foot of 22-gauge wire and make a couple of high-quality pairs of ear wires or even a simple pendant. You'll immediately observe how much "richer" the color looks compared to 14k.
There's a specific confidence that comes with dealing with good materials. It causes you to decrease, be more deliberate with your movements, and really focus on the craftsmanship. It's a bit intimidating in the beginning because you don't wish to mess up an expensive part of metal, but that pressure usually leads to some of your best work. Content making!